Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Saturday, April 28

Going home to Tuscany

It's been raining, all day, for the past sixteen days. I'm not exaggerating. In fact, it might be more like nineteen or twenty days. It's not pleasant. I'm at home in my pjs for the second weekend in a row. Last Saturday night, my mom asked what I was doing. I told her Dave and I were waiting for our sweet potatoes to finish baking and then we were having dinner. She said, "you sound like old people." Thanks, Mom. I'd like to blame the rain.

Last month I visited the folks in Italy, twice!  Here are some photos. Look at that beautiful sunshine.







Tuscany really is gorgeous and the food does not disappoint. I visited Rome and Venice back in high school, and I remember eating lots of pizza and pasta. But this time, my favorite dish was simple fish and vegetables slow cooked in generous amounts of olive oil. And ravioli in walnut cream sauce. And the creme brulee. Mmmmmm. And the coffee, too. Italian espresso isn't as caffeinated as the American and British stuff, so I could have a coffee after every meal if I wanted. 









Dave came along on Easter weekend. We strolled around Florence, shopping for shoes, eating gelato, taking naps on benches at the base of the duomo (that was just me). We explored bits around Pisa and walked around Lucca's walls. On Easter, we took the train to Cinque Terra, which is a string of five quaint, colorful villages along Italy's coast. It's touristy but totally worth a visit. I want to go back and hike through all five; it takes four or five hours.  All day, a thunderstorm hung overhead, creating awesome clouds and lightening. 

Looking forward to visiting again when Melissa hops over the ocean.

Stay warm and dry,
mb

Wednesday, February 29

Try new things: skiing


Last month I spent a week with Dave's family in Val d'isere, a lovely ski resort / village in France. Never having skied before, I slipped and slided through five days of lessons with a no-nonsense, middle-aged French instructor. Above you'll find the only photo of me on skis.  On day four, Dave came down off the super hard scary black diamond slopes and patiently did a few baby runs with me. His presence made me really nervous and I fell over more that afternoon than all the other days combined... and soon I suggested we get hot chocolate and go for a swim instead. But overall, I wasn't too bad. At the end of the week my class went up the real ski lifts and tried a couple of proper slopes. Scary. But I survived!


There were several impressive snow sculptures scattered about Val d'isere, The nativity scene was my favorite. Even if the wise men look kind of creepy.


We stayed at the Hotel Val d'isere where we enjoyed all our meals, plus afternoon tea (hot soup and homemade cakes every single day... I go skiing for the food). Except on Thursday night when we went to a local restaurant for fondue. There were a couple of DJs, bands, and food stalls set up along the main street. Of course Dave and I busted some moves and found the free mulled wine stall on our way to dinner. How we roll.


After dinner each night, we'd read or hope for movies in English on TV or play board games. Here, Dave, Richard (his younger brother), and me were in the middle of an intense Articulate! round... so much shouting.


One afternoon, the whole gang went snowshoeing!  This was more up my alley. It required no skill, just perseverance. I loved the exercise and seeing more of the valley. We even saw a couple goat / deer creatures!  Certainly not as exciting as moose or bears but wildlife nonetheless.








In terms of actual skiing, the jury's still out. It wasn't love at first sight (ski boots are a pain to put on, for one thing). But I didn't hate it either.  Time will tell if it becomes one of my things. But the holiday itself was beautiful (cold!) with plenty of good food and company :) Val d'isere is about a three hour drive from Geneva and close to Italy, too... maybe I can convince my newly relocated folks to meet me in France in the spring?


It's leap day!  Make it count.
mb

Friday, November 18

Notes from India

A message from my friend travelling in India:


So we hear about this rat temple, where rats are the deity and are celebrated and fed and let to just run around. Awesome, right?! It was the worst thing i've ever done. there were just rats everywhere, crawling across the floor, eating food, crapping everywhere, dying and rotting in corners... it was terrible. why would something like this exist?


Made me laugh and think about joys of travel.

Wednesday, September 14

Stage 2 rage


You might like to check out this article about Americans' "residential mobility" driving their desire for familiar, national brands.


On a related note, I've been thinking about the stages people go through after moving to a new place. In stage 1, you romanticize everything (see Jolly good! and the fourth paragraph in this post). Even the weird stuff is new and exciting (oh look! the hot and cold water flow separately out of separate faucets! how quaint!) But then you enter stage 2, angrily replacing your rose-colored glasses with I-hate-everything glasses (I hate separate faucets! I always freeze or burn my hands!).


Another example.

On Saturday, I walked half a mile to Angel to shop for new trainers (= UK English for running shoes. I hate the word trainers. See what I mean?). My knees started aching halfway there and I angrily thought 'WHY DO I HAVE TO WALK EVERYWHERE? I MISS MY CAR.' I didn't find any shoe stores in the area and I angrily thought 'WHY CAN'T I DO ALL MY SHOPPING AT ONCE INSTEAD OF WALKING MILES AND MILES TO INDIVIDUAL STORES?' The grocery store was completely out of salmon fillets, so naturally I thought, 'UK GROCERY STORES ARE DUMB. THEY'RE ALWAYS OUT OF EVERYTHING.' On the way home, I stopped at Boots to buy deodorant and the grand finale of Saturday's stage 2 rage descended upon me when I rediscovered that Brits don't use stick deodorant. All deodorants, besides one or two overpriced speciality brands, are spray-on or liquid roll-on. Infuriating. I HATE LIQUID DEODORANT.

And so forth.

I pride myself in being positive and adaptable in new places, but sometimes I too am irritated by the unfamiliar. Sometimes I just want to get in my car and drive to Wal-Mart where I'm certain to find my favorite, non-liquid deodorant. Confession. 

Thursday, May 12

Curry & bridges

On Saturday, I went to Winfield and we took family photos. They turned out pretty good!



Then I went to NYC and interviewed for a London internship. The interview went well... Shelley and I ate some tasty curry and walked across Brooklyn Bridge... and I had lots of fun catching up with my friend Michael who I haven't seen in four years.


I need to finish packing up my apartment before work.  I hate packing. But I love summertime.

Wednesday, April 27

Walking

Classes are over!  Thunderstorms are brewing. I'm at work reading and trying to stay awake.  Quotes I dig on walking:

"Above all, do not lose your desire to walk: every day I walk myself into a state of well-being and walk away from every illness; I have walked myself into my best thoughts, and I know of no thought so burdensome that one cannot walk away from it... and the more one sits still, the closer one comes to feeling ill... Thus if one just keeps on walking, everything will be all right." (Soren Kierkegaard)

and

"It is good to collect things, but it is better to go on walks." (Anatole France)


I'm trying to keep the second quote in mind as I fight the urge to buy new clothes.

Wednesday, January 5

Things we did in Guatemala

Happy two thousand and eleven!


Surprise, surprise - I didn't blog at all during the Christmas holidays.  Too busy eating obscene amounts of food and being happy!  I hope everyone had a great Christmas and is looking forward to this year.  I certainly am.  For the next seven days I'm having a "blog party" so to speak - one new blog post every day, maybe two or three!  Many posts will wrap up my Guatemala chapter, some will include lots of photos, and there'll be a few random posts as well.

First of all, straight out of my blog notebook:
Things we did in Guatemala.  Hannah and I's trip had its ups and downs.  We didn't have the experience we had expected.  One day I was grumpy and dwelling on the things we didn't accomplish, and I decided to list our positive, memorable, and/or noteworthy experiences to remind myself that yes, we had indeed seen and learned a lot!




Things we did in Guatemala
October - December 2010

- successfully chicken bussed from Antigua from Reu, leaping off at the Esquintla McDonald's just in time.

- almost panicked (but didn't) when we couldn't find cheap hostels in Reu; settled on
La Quinta in the central park; happily took cold showers and happily drank cold beers to escape the heat.


- the first camioneta to Nueva Alianza:  This bus is going to break down.  Why is everyone staring at me?  Oh my gosh, that woman has a plastic bag full of living adolescent chickens.

- eating dinner with Joel, Carlos, and Kevan during the first week at Nueva Alianza.  Broken Spanish conversations. How fun it was (initially).

- buying our Tigo internet stick in Antigua = a nightmare.  Realized how limited my Spanish skills were.


- first shopping trip in Reu = hot and overwhelming; unpleasant
mercado; no idea how much to pay for produce (I was so paranoid about people ripping me off because I was a gringa); woman steals our chicken and pancake mix.

- ... how good our first macaroni and cheese dinner was, even if it was third choice after chicken and pancakes.


-
freaked out after week one in Nueva Alianza; questioned my world view and life goals; received encouraging and practical thoughts from Dave on issues related to international development.

- learned to quickly - and without hesitation - light a gas stove (I'd struggled with this before, embarrassing but true).


- learned to wash my clothes in a
pila.

- ate and loved cauliflower torta (cauliflower cooked in a fried egg), arroz con leche, and the camioneta's wife's homemade tamales.

- read
Johnathan Franzen's "Freedom" and discussed it ALOT with Hannah (I recommend the book).

- impressed with
Earth Lodge's tree houses and their work with local schools (more about this later in the week).
- saw sea turtles dig nests and swim out to sea.

- LOVED swimming in the Pacific Ocean; usually I hate oceans, so this was a nice change.


-
cooked a substantial meal for thirteen people.

- volunteered at
La Festival de la Tortuga, Monterrico and Hawaii's second annual turtle festival.

- riding in the back of pick-up trucks = fun and now my preferred method of transportation.


- rode a boat, truck, and three busses
to Chichicastanango with Hannah and Amy and was really happy.

- climbed Volcán San Pedro and couldn't walk normally for days.


-
dock at San Marcos = idyllic.  Prettiest spot I encountered in Guatemala.

-
saw a murder victim in the streets of Monterrico.

- caught a ride in the back of a truck with two heavily armed soldiers.  They were among the friendliest Guatemalans we met.  One of them earnestly described (in Spanish) his efforts to learn English in his spare time, and his earnestness warmed my heart.


- avoided being stranded in Reu
by the grace of the old woman selling snacks at the cuatro caminos intersection in Reu and Nueva Alianza's agua pura truck driver.  This experience, too, warmed my heart.




Happy New Year, and see you tomorrow!

    Thursday, December 9

    San Pedro & Lake Atitlán


    San Pedro, one of the many towns on Lake Atitlán, and where we stayed for several days.
    Amy, James, and I walking towards the cathedral on Sunday.  There was a big Christmas festival that evening, including a parade, marching band, and basketball game.
    There were lots of beautiful flowers along San Pedro's streets.
    Behind Hannah and Amy you can see a sign for one of San Pedro's many Spanish language schools.
    It's true.  Lots of good (cheap) food here!  If you're ever in San Pedro, definitely visit Clover's.  
    I love this photo.  We were on the dock at San Marcos waiting to catch a boat back to San Pedro.
    Not the cutest photo of me - I was concentrating!
    But a great shot of Volcán San Pedro, which we climbed the next day.  
    Amy at the top of the volcano.


    Yesterday was a Catholic feast day - the Feast of the Immaculate Conception.  Last night everyone was on the streets to celebrate the virgin Mary.  There were bands, food stalls, a parade, and tons of fireworks.  The day before, December 7, was the Burning of the Devil, which didn't seem to be a huge deal in San Pedro. 

    Hannah and I are back in Antigua for a few days.   We were thrilled to discover that in our absence this hostel somehow acquired a copy of the newest Harry Potter movie.  That's how we're spending our evening... we even have microwave popcorn!  

    Monday, December 6

    So touristy

    Hannah and I started out in a rural mountain community, moved to a less rural beach community, and are now backpackers on the gringo trail. Without a doubt, Nueva Alianza and Reu were "real" Guatemala. There were no other tourists, hardly any spoken or written English, and most people farmed for a living. In Monterrico and Hawaii, there were more Guatemalan and western tourists, but outside of the volunteer center we still needed Spanish to survive.

    Many people say Antigua isn't "real" Guatemala. The streets are clean, stray dogs and cats aren't common, there are English bookshops, locals seem wealthier, and western tourists abound. So yes, it's not dirty poor indigenous culture Guatemala. But the city definitely has history. The streets and parks and crumbling cathedrals have been there for centuries. And Guatemalans still possess the city. I see more Guatemalans on the streets than I see tourists, and locals patronize some of the nicer restaurants.

    We're currently in San Pedro, a community on Lake Atitlán. In my opinion, this is the most touristy place we've been so far. An entire section of town consists of brightly painted signs advertising yoga classes and barbecue chicken pizza and "American portions for Guatemalan prices," and all the bracelet and cloth vendors speak broken English - good price, only ten quetzal. And I see way more westerners than Guatemalans. Up the hill is "real" San Pedro, which is nothing special except it's the legit Guatemalan section of town.

    Talking about which parts of a country are most authentic and which parts are - wrinkle your nose in dislike - so touristy is pretty pointless and tiresome. Everyone has a different opinion. I prefer Antigua to San Pedro (the latter's beautiful lake and volcano scenery aside). But I think most people travel for a combination of authenticity and comfortable tourism. For example, San Pedro is making me miss Nueva Alianza and Reu's "real" factor. We had to speak Spanish there and I felt like I was truly in the middle of a different culture. On the other hand, when we were in Reu, we lived for Friday morning breakfasts at McDonald's because our food choices in the community were so limited. Here in San Pedro, the food is delightful. Last night we had the best garlic bread, barbecue chicken pizza, and hot fudge brownie I've ever tasted. Was it authentic Guatemalan food? I don't think so. Was it an memorable traveling experience in an atmospheric restaurant? Yes.

    Today I did have some delicious real Guatemalan food. For 10Q, or about 1.25USD, I bought three chicken tacos from a food stall... the most flavorful chicken I've had so far in Guatemala. I added a bit too much spicy green salsa and luckily walked past a woman selling arroz con leche, basically sweet hot milk with rice. Very satisfying. Tonight I'll revert back to non-Guatemalan food. Maybe mango curry or satay chicken.

    Eating will always be one of my favorite things about traveling.

    Saturday, December 4

    Boat, truck, bus bus bus

    Last night I had a prolonged bad moment during which I wanted to be anywhere but Guatemala. Lots of disillusionment and self-doubt.

    But I vowed to wake up this morning with a positive attitude and renewed determination to make the next two weeks super memorable and fun. It wasn't easy as we had to get up at six am, I was still grumpy, and there was no coffee involved. After arriving in Panajachel and having an okay breakfast, we discovered a shuttle to Chichicastanango would be fifteen American dollars - a ridiculous price for the distance. I inquired about a chicken bus to Chichi and was told to take a boat to somewhere I couldn't pronounce, then a pick-up truck to St. something, and then a bus to Solalá and then a bus to somewhere else, and then a bus to Chichi. Are you kidding me? But I was determined to make it to Chichi by Saturday night so we could go to mass at the local cathedral. Down to the boat docks we trekked. A half dozen jewelry vendors and boatsmen followed, trying to sell their craft. By the time we arrived at the docks, I couldn't remember the name of our first destination. We dumbly stared at all the boats.

    Amy: If it's gonna be too hard, why don't we just spent the night here and catch a shuttle in the morning?

    The voice in my head: AGHHHH. I give up. I have no more energy to fight my disillusionment and bad attitude.

    Two boatsmen continued to pester us about our boating needs until finally an exasperated Amy said, "WE'RE TRYING TO GO TO CHICHI," and one of the men said the name of our first destination - the one I'd forgotten and have forgotten again - and led us to the appropriate dock. Thank you, persistent boatsmen.

    The ensuing journey was delightful because it was physical, dirty, with-the-locals travel and got us to our destination for less than two American dollars. We didn't end up going to mass tonight, but I don't care. I fought the bad attitude and came out on the other side. In the morning we'll spend a few hours at the market, searching for Christmas presents and honing our bargaining skills. And tomorrow we'll head back to Lake Atitlán where Amy's boyfriend James is studying Spanish.

    Congratulations to Auburn (again)! I've been planning a potential trip to St. Louis for New Year's, and now I have a national championship road trip to consider as well. The traveling never stops!

    You might notice I've changed the title of my blog and my name from Mary Elizabeth to Mary Beth. I intend to keep this blog for awhile and will be experimenting with different titles, layouts, and content during the next two months. Thanks for understanding.

    (I don't know what I was thinking with the whole Mary Elizabeth thing, either.)

    Thursday, November 25

    Thanksgiving



    Thanksgiving on the beach wasn't really Thanksgivingy. We spent all day in Monterrico helping set up for the turtle festival - it was so hot. But it was a satisfying, productive day and I'm excited about the weekend. Several of the German volunteers left this morning so we had a smaller group for dinner tonight. Midway through the meal, we decided to share things we are thankful for and in doing so created that heartwarming atmosphere of gratitude and contentment. Our Thanksgiving list included the park dogs, Thunder and Flash, unlimited agua pura (especially on hot days like today), being able to travel, good health, and no more maggots.



    Me and "the Germans" hitching to Monterrico for ice cream
    (Flash is sitting in Marissa's lap)


    Taken on a sunrise patrol; fishermen trying to catch the tide

    Wednesday, November 3

    Fighting fear



    Fear. It's an interesting and tricky phenomenon. I did a lot of thinking about fear during college, maybe in response to terrorism and politics, or overseas adventures, or books defending the goodness of humanity and strangers... probably in response to all these things. And I became passionate about the importance of fighting fear. Don't let fear control you, don't let fear keep you from trying difficult things, that sort of thing.

    Fighting fear felt poetic for awhile. I jumped out of a plane and helped a diabetic drug addict in a rough Atlanta neighborhood. I drove six hundred miles by myself five months after I got my driver's license. I went to South America. But then, and this happened in a matter of months, I began to fear less tangible things, like myself and failure and the future. That kind of fear has proven much harder to fight.

    Anyway, I don't know if fearing myself activated my previously dormant fear center or what, but recently I have experienced more ear ringing palm sweating fear than ever before. Some of you have heard about our camping trip in Yellowstone. Hannah heard a bear (or something) circling our tent and woke me with a terrified barely audible whisper: "Stop breathing. There's a bear." I think the experience will make a good short story some day. For now, suffice it to say that night was the first time I felt I'd come to terms with death. Paralyzed in my sleeping bag, unable to control my alarmingly rapid pulse, I thought calmly to myself, "You might die very soon. But that's okay." For weeks, even in north Alabama where there are no bears, my stomach lurched every time I heard a rustle in the woods.

    For the first time in my life I was scared of an upcoming trip as I read warning after warning of armed robbery, rape, and bus hijackings in Guatemala. I was on high alert in the poorly lit parking garage of Guatemala City's international airport, and my heart pounded hard when it occurred to me our driver could be kidnapping us. Here in Nueva Alianza, I've woken up to mysterious noises around the hotel. Sometimes I hear distant voices and remember our lockless door and think about machetes. And don't get me started on all of the insects and critters in this place. Bright green buzzing flies dive bomb me when I brush my teeth. Cockroaches live in the fork and spoon drawers. Mice race across the attic floor at night and scurry through the kitchen during lunch. Once I was lying on the floor fixing my bunk bed when an enormous black scorpian crawled right under my nose.

    Luckily I've developed a coping mechanism for creepy crawly things: I've taught myself not to look for them. When I shower or open drawers, I actively choose not to focus my eyes on any walls or corners. I calmly go about my business, and if I notice an animate dark mass that may or may not be a tarantula, I ignore it. "It's probably not a tarantula," I say to myself. Ignorance is bliss. I don't want to know. The other night, Hannah and Dan insisted on talking about an awful spider that was crawling across the living room ceiling. I refused to look and managed to forget about it. Later, as I was stretching, my eyes accidentally found the spider on a beam above my feet. Shudder. It took five minutes of disciplined thinking, but I managed to forget it again. The same night we heard creaking floor boards outside and a few startling BANGs, either recreational gun shots or oranges falling on the tin roof. Though I knew we were probably hearing dogs and fruit, I still felt uneasy. But I didn't dwell on the noises and focused on our James Bond movie instead.

    On multiple occasions people have asked, "aren't you scared of anything?" Yes, I am. Ask my dad about the time I almost screamed and clawed my way out of a Disney World water ride. Sharks, tsunamis, spiders, and the idea of armed assault freak me out. I don't do horror movies. During this past year alone, I've discovered all sorts of new scary things. But I've also discovered that even my worst fears can be fought. It's always been worth it.

    To be honest, if I didn't insist on fighting fear I would be back in the States by now. Good grief. Hannah just reported she was washing her face, looked down and saw a rat chasing a grasshopper under the bathroom door.

    On a separate note, my friend Dan just got back to Alabama after two weeks in Guatemala. He visited the capital, Antigua, and then spent a few days here in the community. You can read about and watch his adventures here.

    Friday, October 22

    Patience & anti-itch cream

    I've been too exhausted and confused to write this week. Yesterday I managed to churn out a few strongly worded emails to Dave and my parents (lucky them). Along with other advice, my mom kindly suggested that I update my blog.




    Once upon a time I was vomiting violently in a concrete bathroom in the middle of no where Bolivia at 3am, wondering how I could love something - travel - that left me vomiting, violently, in a concrete bathroom, thousands of miles from my family, potentially soon to be dead. That's the first time I remember questioning my love of travel and my broader worldview. I may have even promised God I'd be more sensible and conventional and less stupid if he'd let me out of that concrete bathroom alive. (Oops.) More recently, I've questioned my values and decisions because being away from college is scary and the jokes people make about me going to Guatemala are scary. Usually I question myself for 24 to 36 hours before deciding that never mind, I'm on the right track, just don't stop believin'.

    I could be wrong, but I think these two months in Guatemala are going to equal two months of frequent self-doubt and questioning. It sucks, but not all adventures are waterfalls, nursery rhymes with local children, or near death experiences recounted over a couple of cold beers. Sometimes adventures are overwhelming challenges that require impossible amounts of patience and anti-itch cream.

    No refrigeration, no hot water, no lukewarm water, constant bug bites... a nine hour long shopping trip into Reu during which a woman steals our chicken and pancake mix, depriving us of meat and comfort food... a five kilometer uphill hike with two dozen eggs in tow and being laughed at by a large group of teenage Guatemalans... not being able to satisfyingly rant to our new friends about our awful day... all of these things are tough.

    But the ultimate challenge is handling the persistent whisper in my ear: what are you doing here? You can go home. There's carpet and gallons of cold milk and paying jobs and people who under-stand you when you ask where the can opener is. When I get over the language barrier and rustic lifestyle, the voice continues, what do you think you're actually learning? You're kidding yourself, wasting your time. No one really wants you here, except to make a few extra bucks. No one needs you here. They don't need to learn English. You may fix the building up, but it'll just fall back into disrepair. And the absolute worse is, you've had your fun. But now you see, don't you? The people who stay home and advance their careers and invest in a house KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING. It's not too late. You can turn this around. The airport is only five sweaty bone rattling bus rides away.

    The whispering voice is compelling and, if you must know, fully in control of my emotions. But I am not a quitter. I am a learner, damnit. That is what new places and new people and facing scary things are about - learning. And arguably I'll learn more useful, meaningful lessons when things are hard than when things conform to my expectations and liking.

    Yesterday I learned the Spanish word for "green bean." Tonight I'm learning how to make coconut flan; we're currently discussing how to crack a coconut since Sara is gone for the day and we don't have a machete. Tomorrow I will take another nine hour trip to the market, buy another chicken and, this time, it won't get stolen. I choose to consider all the above progress!